From Biomass-Derived p-Hydroxycinnamic Acids to Novel Sustainable and Non-Toxic Phenolics-Based UV-Filters: A Multidisciplinary Journey.

Although organic UV-filters are extensively used in cosmetics to protect consumers from the deleterious effects of solar UV radiation-exposure, they suffer from some major drawbacks such as their fossil origin and their toxicity to both humans and the environment. Thus, finding sustainable and non-toxic UV-filters is becoming a topic of great interest for the cosmetic industry. A few years ago, sinapoyl malate was shown to be a powerful naturally occurring UV-filter. Building on these findings, we decided to design and optimize an entire value chain that goes from biomass to innovative biobased and non-toxic lignin-derived UV-filters. This multidisciplinary approach relies on: 1) The production of phenolic synthons using either metabolite extraction from biomass or their bioproduction through synthetic biology/fermentation/in stream product recovery; 2) their functionalization using green chemistry to access sinapoyl malate and analogues; 3) the study of their UV-filtering activity, their photostability, their biological properties; and 4) their photodynamics. This mini-review aims at demonstrating that combining biotechnology, green chemistry, downstream process and photochemistry is a powerful approach to transform biomass and, in particular lignins, into high value-added innovative UV-filters.

Effects of substituent position on aminobenzoate relaxation pathways in solution.

The negative effects of ultraviolet radiation (UVR) on human skin have led to the widespread use of sunscreens, i.e. skincare products containing UV filters to absorb, reflect or otherwise block UVR. The mechanisms by which UV filters dissipate energy following photoexcitation, i.e. their photodynamics, can crucially determine a molecule's performance as a sunscreen UV filter. In this work, we evaluate the effects of substituent position on the in-solution relaxation pathways of two derivates of methyl anthranilate (an ortho compound that is a precursor to the UV filter meradimate), meta- and para-methyl anthranilate, m-MA and p-MA, respectively. The photodynamics of m-MA were found to be sensitive to solvent polarity: its emission spectra show larger Stokes shifts with increasing polarity, and both the fluorescence quantum yield and lifetimes for m-MA increase in polar solvents. While the Stokes shifts for p-MA are much milder and more independent of solvent environment than those of m-MA, we find its fluorescence quantum yields to be sensitive not only to solvent polarity but to the hydrogen bonding character of the solvent. In both cases (m- and p-MA) we have found common computational methods to be insufficient to appropriately model the observed spectroscopic data, likely due to an inability to account for explicit solvent interactions, a known challenge in computational chemistry. Therefore, apart from providing insight into the photodynamics of anthranilate derivatives, the work presented here also provides a case study that may be of use to theoretical chemists looking to improve and develop explicit solvent computational methods.

Determining the photostability of avobenzone in sunscreen formulation models using ultrafast spectroscopy.

Avobenzone is an ultraviolet (UV) filter that is often included in sunscreen formulations despite its lack of photostability. Its inclusion is necessary due to few existing alternatives for photoprotection in the UVA region (320-400 nm). To better understand and predict the photostability of avobenzone, ultrafast transient electronic absorption spectroscopy (TEAS) has been used to study the effects of solvent (including emollients), concentration and skin surface temperature on its excited-state relaxation mechanism, following photoexcitation with UVA radiation (∼350 nm). Subtle differences between the excited-state lifetimes were found between the systems, but the TEAS spectral features were qualitatively the same for all solution and temperature combinations. Alongside TEAS measurements, UV filter/emollient blends containing avobenzone were irradiated using simulated solar light and their degradation tracked using steady-state UV-visible spectroscopy. Sun protection factor (SPF) and UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) assessments were also carried out on representative oil phases (higher concentration blends), which could be used to formulate oil-in-water sunscreens. It was found that there was an apparent concentration dependence on the long-term photoprotective efficacy of these mixtures, which could be linked to the ultrafast photodynamics by the presence of a ground-state bleach offset. This combination of techniques shows potential for correlating long-term behaviours (minutes to hours) of avobenzone with its ultrafast photophysics (femtoseconds to nanoseconds), bridging the gap between fundamental photophysics/photochemistry and commercial sunscreen design.

New Generation UV-A Filters: Understanding Their Photodynamics on a Human Skin Mimic.

The sparsity of efficient commercial ultraviolet-A (UV-A) filters is a major challenge toward developing effective broadband sunscreens with minimal human- and eco-toxicity. To combat this, we have designed a new class of Meldrum-based phenolic UV-A filters. We explore the ultrafast photodynamics of coumaryl Meldrum, CMe, and sinapyl Meldrum (SMe), both in an industry-standard emollient and on a synthetic skin mimic, using femtosecond transient electronic and vibrational absorption spectroscopies and computational simulations. Upon photoexcitation to the lowest excited singlet state (S1), these Meldrum-based phenolics undergo fast and efficient nonradiative decay to repopulate the electronic ground state (S0). We propose an initial ultrafast twisted intramolecular charge-transfer mechanism as these systems evolve out of the Franck-Condon region toward an S1/S0 conical intersection, followed by internal conversion to S0 and subsequent vibrational cooling. Importantly, we correlate these findings to their long-term photostability upon irradiation with a solar simulator and conclude that these molecules surpass the basic requirements of an industry-standard UV filter.

Insights into the photoprotection mechanism of the UV filter homosalate.

Homosalate (HMS) is a salicylate molecule that is commonly included within commercial sunscreen formulations to provide protection from the adverse effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation exposure. In the present work, the mechanisms by which HMS provides UV photoprotection are unravelled, using a multi-pronged approach involving a combination of time-resolved ultrafast laser spectroscopy in the gas-phase and in solution, laser-induced fluorescence, steady-state absorption spectroscopy, and computational methods. The unique combination of these techniques allow us to show that the enol tautomer of HMS undergoes ultrafast excited state intramolecular proton transfer (ESIPT) upon photoexcitation in the UVB (290-320 nm) region; once in the keto tautomer, the excess energy is predominantly dissipated non-radiatively. Sharp transitions are observed in the LIF spectrum at close-to-origin excitation energies, which points towards the potential presence of a second conformer that does not undergo ESIPT. These studies demonstrate that, overall, HMS exhibits mostly favourable photophysical characteristics of a UV filter for inclusion in sunscreen formulations.

Wavepacket insights into the photoprotection mechanism of the UV filter methyl anthranilate.

Meradimate is a broad-spectrum ultraviolet absorber used as a chemical filter in commercial sunscreens. Herein, we explore the ultrafast photodynamics occurring in methyl anthranilate (precursor to Meradimate) immediately after photoexcitation with ultraviolet radiation to understand the mechanisms underpinning Meradimate photoprotection. Using time-resolved photoelectron spectroscopy, signal from the first singlet excited state of methyl anthranilate shows an oscillatory behavior, i.e., quantum beats. Our studies reveal a dependence of the observed beating frequencies on photoexcitation wavelength and photoelectron kinetic energy, unveiling the different Franck-Condon overlaps between the vibrational levels of the ground electronic, first electronic excited, and ground cationic states of methyl anthranilate. By evaluating the behavior of these beats with increasing photon energy, we find evidence for intramolecular vibrational energy redistribution on the first electronic excited state. Such energy redistribution hinders efficient relaxation of the electronic excited state, making methyl anthranilate a poor choice for an efficient, efficacious sunscreen chemical filter.

From fundamental science to product: a bottom-up approach to sunscreen development.

Despite the pivotal role of ultraviolet (UV) radiation in sustaining life on Earth, overexposure to this type of radiation can have catastrophic effects, such as skin cancer. Sunscreens, the most common form of artificial protection against such harmful effects, absorb UV radiation before it reaches vulnerable skin cells. Absorption of UV radiation prompts ultrafast molecular events in sunscreen molecules which, ideally, would allow for fast and safe dissipation of the excess energy. However, our knowledge of these mechanisms remains limited. In this article, we will review recent advances in the field of ultrafast photodynamics (light induced molecular processes occurring within femtoseconds, fs, 10-15 s to picoseconds, ps, 10-12 s) of sunscreens. We follow a bottom-up approach to common sunscreen active ingredients, analysing any emerging trends from the current literature on the subject. Moreover, we will identify the main questions that remain unanswered, pinpoint some of the main challenges and finally comment on the outlook of this exciting field of research.

Photophysics of sunscreen molecules in the gas phase: a stepwise approach towards understanding and developing next-generation sunscreens.

The relationship between exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation and skin cancer urges the need for extra photoprotection, which is presently provided by widespread commercially available sunscreen lotions. Apart from having a large absorption cross section in the UVA and UVB regions of the electromagnetic spectrum, the chemical absorbers in these photoprotective products should also be able to dissipate the excess energy in a safe way, i.e. without releasing photoproducts or inducing any further, harmful, photochemistry. While sunscreens are tested for both their photoprotective capability and dermatological compatibility, phenomena occurring at the molecular level upon absorption of UV radiation are largely overlooked. To date, there is only a limited amount of information regarding the photochemistry and photophysics of these sunscreen molecules. However, a thorough understanding of the intrinsic mechanisms by which popular sunscreen molecular constituents dissipate excess energy has the potential to aid in the design of more efficient, safer sunscreens. In this review, we explore the potential of using gas-phase frequency- and time-resolved spectroscopies in an effort to better understand the photoinduced excited-state dynamics, or photodynamics, of sunscreen molecules. Complementary computational studies are also briefly discussed. Finally, the future outlook of expanding these gas-phase studies into the solution phase is considered.

Bottom-up excited state dynamics of two cinnamate-based sunscreen filter molecules.

Methyl-E-4-methoxycinnamate (E-MMC) is a model chromophore of the commonly used commercial sunscreen agent, 2-ethylhexyl-E-4-methoxycinnamate (E-EHMC). In an effort to garner a molecular-level understanding of the photoprotection mechanisms in operation with E-EHMC, we have used time-resolved pump-probe spectroscopy to explore E-MMC's and E-EHMC's excited state dynamics upon UV-B photoexcitation to the S1 (11ππ*) state in both the gas- and solution-phase. In the gas-phase, our studies suggest that the excited state dynamics are driven by non-radiative decay from the 11ππ* to the S3 (11nπ*) state, followed by de-excitation from the 11nπ* to the ground electronic state (S0). Using both a non-polar-aprotic solvent, cyclohexane, and a polar-protic solvent, methanol, we investigated E-MMC and E-EHMC's photochemistry in a more realistic, 'closer-to-shelf' environment. A stark change to the excited state dynamics in the gas-phase is observed in the solution-phase suggesting that the dynamics are now driven by efficient E/Z isomerisation from the initially photoexcited 11ππ* state to S0.